Tuesday, 29 May 2007

Durex Vibrations: Disassembly and Battery Replacement

My first howto, TASTELESS!

In this quick howto, I will show you how the Durex Vibrations cock-ring works, and how to replace the battery (the non-replaceable one)
Product linky: http://www.shopdurex.com/product_info.php?product_id=22

Yeah. thats what I said too...£5.99 for twenty minutes of runtime. Gonna be a costly weekend at this rate:-)

The device itself it quite well designed, and ready for rough treatment. From a review point of view, it does the job designed for, and isnt uncomfortable in use. But, man, TWENTY minutes and then the battery is flat is just crap. So we will change that.

NOTE: re-using this thing without giving it a good clean and sterilizing it properly is a really bad idea. Just dont even think of it..! If not for you, think of her!! Buy two, and use them in rotation, so wehn one is flat, put it in your sterilizing area cum battery replacement section so that you dont inadvertently take a shortcut in a passionate moment and re-use it without giving it a service:-)

OK, firstly, make sure your work area is CLEAN!!! really clean. Lay the device flat and you will see there are two sections..an outer rubber ring which acts as a sleeve, and an internal plastic housing (which HAS to house the motor with eccentric weight, a battery and a switch mechanism.

Push the plastic housing out of the rubber sleeve carefully. The rubber sleeve is quite grippy and this part may take some time and effort.

Once you have removed the plastic housing from the sleeve, you can see it splits into two parts, the rubber sleeve actually held the two sections together when assembled. Carefully split the plastic housing in two, using a fingernail or similar.


Now, from left to right we have
1) Eccentric weight
2) Small "pager" motor (used in cellphones etc)
3) Electrical switch contact, with plastic release
4) LR754 battery


Here is a better view of the parts disassembled.


The switch contact is nothing more than a piece of metal, and the external plastic slide disconnects the metal from the motor housing and negative terminal of the battery. All very ingenious.


Replacing the battery is a simple matter of removing the parts one by one and fitting a new battery. The onyl semi-tricky parts is refitting the switch contact, but given the pictures below this should be a no-brainer. While it is apart is the best time to clean the inside surfaces of the plastic housing. Nasties get in there also.


Pictures of switch in the open, disconnected position


Pictures of switch in the closed, connected position (I had to hold it else it would zoom all over the table)



Possible improvements:
1) longer life battery, perhaps a different size (would require enlarging the battery compartment)
2) fitting the motor from a bit-charg mini remote controlled car (20000rpm up to 40000rpm for a 4.0 motor)
http://www.gizmo-guru.com/bitcharg/spares.htm

I suppose, at this stage, I should mention that these photos you have been staring at so intently are of a used Durex Vibrations product. It could've been worse...somebody could have uploaded a photo of you with a mullet from 1970 to imageshack. Look on the bright side.

5 comments:

Roy said...

Nice hack

Stu said...

Yes, this does really work and save you a fortune, well it does if you are that lucky!
Take care.
Stu

Steve said...

Looks like they changed the design... now it's no longer possible to split open the vibra-pack (it's glued together).

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Christopher said...

Have you tried increasing the engine? I had a look at the remote car site, which motor would fit?

Here's another article mentioning an increased battery (stronger): http://paulm.com/inchoate/2007/11/extended_durex_play_vibrating_ring.html